Why You Don’t Need An R-Value For RV Skirting

Why You Don’t Need An R-Value For RV Skirting

There’s a popular myth that RV skirting needs to have R-Value to be able to protect your RV. This is simply not the case.

We’re going to go over the common misconceptions around RV Skirting and R-Value, and what you can do to protect your RV for a fraction of the cost.

1. Any R-Value savings are much smaller the closer the outside temperature is to the inside temperature.
When the temperature dips below zero, the area under an RV is typically kept just above the freezing point by an electric heater. Because of this, the temperature differential between outside and inside air is very small, as is the heated cubic square footage under the RV. This is unlike a house, where inside temperatures are typically kept at 70 degrees or more and where the cubic square footage is about 2500% larger than that of an RV’s.

2. RV skirting would need to be very thick to produce any significant R-Value rating.
R-Value is the resistance to heat flow through a given thickness of material. For example, a typical home in the USA has wall insulation of R-11 to R-15. Your RV Skirting would need to have a sewn-in insulation that is 4 to 5 inches thick to achieve this R-value. Most RV Skirting that claims to be insulated is less than a half an inch thick. At this thickness, there is only the illusion of an R-value.

3. Stopping air movement is 10 times more important than R-Value for RV skirting.
What good is wearing a winter coat if you have the zipper undone? The most important way to retain heat and keep cold air out is a barrier to air-flow (RV Skirting), not insulation. As long as the warm air is contained under the RV and the majority of the cooler outside air is kept out, adding insulation to the skirting is a waste of money. The barrier to airflow created by the skirting is really all that is needed.

4. If you are in an extreme winter climate what is the best way to add R-Value to your skirting?
As mentioned above, the sewn-in variety of insulation (ie: Poly-fill or reflective bubble wrap) adds very little value to RV skirting and is not necessary in 90% of RV skirting projects. The exception to this rule is if the RV is wintering in an extremely cold area where temperatures are commonly 15 degrees or more below freezing. In this situation you will want to have both RV skirting and an insulated barrier of rigid Styrofoam board. Rigid Styrofoam insulation board is by far the most effective way to get a higher R-value without adding a lot of thickness.

Typically this board has an R-value of R5 per inch of thickness. The best variety of this board is extruded polystyrene foam board, also called blue or pink board in the big box stores. To use this board with your skirting, build a frame work under the RV using inexpensive 2” x 2” lumber, then attach the foam board to the framework. Once the foam board is in place, then you can install your RV skirting to seal the warm air in and the cold air out.

5. The best heat source to use under your RV skirting.
In warm climates many RVers use a 100 watt light bulb to create a heat source, but there is a much safer and efficient way to heat the area under your skirting . Use one or two thermostatically controlled space heaters with a built-in fan under the RV. In longer RVs, place a heater at each end of the RV facing the opposite end. Turn the thermostat control to just above the point of freezing. When the temperature dips down close to the freezing point, the heaters come on and blow warm air around the entire area underneath the RV. This is a very safe and efficient heat source, as it is only using energy when needed. Be sure to see the heaters we recommend on the EZ Snap RV skirting product page at https://ezsnapdirect.com/products/rv-skirting/.

Place approximately 12 inches apart on the lens of the skylight.

AirFlo™ Spacers are recommended for all Dome Skylights or Skylights with Plastic Lens.

To use: Place the spacers approximately 12 inches apart or how every many
would be required to keep the mesh from laying on the skylight lens.

Why do we suggest the AirFlo Spacers: Many dome skylights are quality, "Made in America" skylights, but unfortunately there are
a lot of skylights on the market now that are made off-shore. In very hot weather, these poorly made skylight lens can develop crazing or imperfections in the
plastic of the skylight lens. This is caused by an excessive heat build-up in the sub-standard plastic lens.
The AirFlo™ spacers lift the shading mesh off of the lens of the skylight, allowing the excess heat to dissipate.

NOTE: Using AirFlo Spacers will slightly increase the size of the dimensions of the shading mesh you will need.

If you are confident that you have a quality built dome skylight, then these spacers
are probably not necessary for your project, but if you are unsure, better to be safe than sorry.

Outside View Black EZ Snap Shade Screens

OUTSIDE VIEW - BLACK EZ Snap Shade Screens.

INSIDE VIEW - BLACK EZ Snap Shade Screens

Outside View White EZ Snap Shade Screens

OUTSIDE VIEW - WHITE EZ Snap Shade Screens

Inside View White EZ Snap Shade Screens

INSIDE VIEW - WHITE EZ Snap Shade Screens

The Primer Pen is used for applications where it is necessary to increase the surface adhesion of the EZ Snap stud.

Contains a 3M Clear, Colorless primer. Enough to prime the surface area for approximately 50 studs.

To use: Shake the pen well before using.
A gentle squeeze 1″ in from the felt tip, ruptures the inner membrane, allowing the contents to be easily dispensed.
Apply a thin, uniform coating to the bonding surface using the minimum amount that will fully coat the surface.
Dries clear. Allow to dry thoroughly before applying the studs. This takes approximately 5 minutes at room temperature.
Extremely porous surfaces may need a second application for uniform coverage and good adhesion.

TIP: Make a template, cut-out to the same size as the stud.
This prevents wasting primer by only priming the area that the stud will bond to.
**As with all primer type products, test on small area first to ensure it is compatible with surface.